2005 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2028 - 2050
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2022 - 2038
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical I organized of Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs. It’s a wine I’ve loved and followed for many years. The Domaine is, of course, one of the most illustrious in Burgundy, thanks in part to the efforts of the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, who stood up to the négociants in the 1920s in response to their corrupt blending practices and who subsequently became one of the first to estate bottle his wines. On Sem’s death in 1952, he was succeeded by his son Jacques, who further burnished the reputation of the estate. Guillaume, the current Marquis d’Angerville, enjoyed a successful career as an investment banker in London, New York and Paris, taking over the estate when his father died unexpectedly in the summer of 2003. It was a real baptism by fire, as 2003 was the hottest vintage on record.
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Potential alcohol levels here were a generous 13.4% in 2006, said Guillaume d'Angerville, and no chaptalization was done, except for a bit of sugar added to the estate's village Pommard. "In terms of its balance of acids, fruit and tannins, 2006 resembles 2002," d'Angerville told me. "The wines are gaining body and momentum with elevage, and there's no dip in the middle of the mouth." D'Angerville noted that he doesn't punch down the must, and neither did his father. "We don't want to extract anything that's not noble or clean," he told me, adding that the domain has always destemmed its fruit.
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"The 2005s are more powerful than the 2002s, with another dimension of expression," said Guillaume d'Angerville. "And the 2005s are more elegant and harmonious than the 1999s." The estate-wide yield averaged a reasonable 35 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines range from 13% to 13.8% alcohol with no chaptalization. Incidentally, d'Angerville and his brother-in-law Renaud de Villette bottled the 2004s on the late side due to the very late malolactic fermentations. "Barrel time after the end of the malo was critical," said d'Angerville, noting that the wines were bottled three months later than they might otherwise have been.
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