1998 Pontet-Canet
France
Pauillac Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2018 - 2032
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As at Lafon-Rochet, also owned by the Tesseron family, a growing percentage of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has been done in barriques the last couple of years. Alfred Tesseron is convinced that this approach results in nobler tannins and a better integration of the wine flavors and oak component. Numerous improvements were made in the vineyards during the 2000 growing season, said technical director Jean-Michel Comme, all with the objective of aerating and getting more sun on the grapes. Green pruning in April was designed to suppress some canes and facilitate better exposure of the fruit. Then in early July, the estate thinned leaves on both sides of the vines in an attempt to improve the quality of the tannins. In late July, the process of dropping crop began, with the objective of having no clusters touching each other. The result may well be the estate's best wine to date.
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Among the recent improvements here are the introduction of smaller cagettes [baskets that only hold about 30 pounds of grapes] for bringing in the harvest. By only half-filling these crates, says proprietor Alfred Tesseron, "we can see all the grapes when they are dumped onto our triage tables, and only healthy grapes are kept." Tesseron pulled leaves on both sides of his merlot vines in search of faster ripening in '99, though he noted that the sugars were too high for the level of polyphenols two weeks before the harvest. Partly for this reason, he describes '99 as a year favoring the later-harvested cabernet sauvignon, while '98 was a merlot year. Pontet-Canet carried out a softer extraction in '99. "The extracted, overworked wines in '99 tend to finish hard," Tesseron observed.
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Here, too, the 1998 features an atypically high percentage of merlot (50%, vs. only 28% planted in the vineyards), but that largely because the old cabernet vines yielded so little, said Michel Tesseron. Overall, the crop level was five hectoliters per hectare less in '98 than in '97, and the wine represents a 50% selection. Renovations here in recent years have focused on improving rootstocks, and on matching the cepage to the closely defined site.
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