2021 Pontet-Canet

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Since Alfred Tesseron was over in California, I met with his daughter Justine and winemaker Mathieu Bessonnet. “We did not have too much damage from the frost as we worked the soil 10 days in advance,” Bessonnet explained. “We only lost 100 buds. The cold affected the Merlot and flowered later than the Cabernet Sauvignon. We had poor flowering. Bunches were not compact, and this benefitted air circulation. June was terrible, and for the third year out of four we had a lot of mildew. The weather is so extreme these days, so we have to adapt, training staff to spray efficiently and reactively. Fifteen people are now trained to spray, and we can do the entire vineyard in 11 hours compared to 17 hours previously. We use copper and horsetail, wicker and 501 Preparation. We have stopped hedging and arch the vines, which makes them more resilient so that they can cope themselves. But the mildew is never the same, and we are trying to find the logic behind the mildew attack. In the end, we lost more from coulure and millerandage than mildew. The most important decision was to stop soil cultivation between mid-June until 20 July in order to not to give extra food to the vines and pump water from the soil. The harvest began on 24 September with the Merlot, the other varieties on 4 October and finished on 12 October. It was a stressful harvest because there was some rot, not enough to stop us sorting it out. We waited, if necessary, to obtain ripeness, even if there was a risk. The tannins and aromas came quickly during maceration, just working the cap every other day, working it less than we used to. Just a small pumping over at the beginning and then do what we call, au cocotte (hen) where we take the free-run juice of one vat to top up other vats and macerate in closed tanks. It means you don’t have to wet the skins, and it stops bacterial infection whilst macerating and polymerising the tannins. We aged the wine reductively to protect the fruit.”

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