2004 Pontet-Canet
France
Pauillac Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2024 - 2040
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Consumers who have been buying Pontet-Canet in recent years know that this superb chateau has been making wines of first-growth concentration and class. The 2006 is no exception, although it was a retaste of the 2005 in early April that had me speaking in tongues. Proprietor Alfred Tesseron told me he believes the team did a very good job harvesting in 2006, using small 7.5-kilo cagettes and taking its time: the harvest extended from September 19 until October 9. Ultimately, production was just 35 hectoliters per hectare of wine, the same amount as in 2005. The 2006 is actually higher in merlot than either 2005 or 2004, as Tesseron was happy with the quality of the 2006 merlot on his gravelly clay and limestone soils.
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A decade's worth of steady improvement and increasing attention to detail at Pontet-Canet has culminated in the estate's greatest wine in recent memory, from what proprietor Alfred Tesseron described as "a very slow harvest" and a crop level of just 35 hectoliters per hectare. With the 2005 vintage, said Tesseron, Pontet-Canet purchased a number of 80-hectoliter concrete fermenters. Small lots of juice can go into the tanks without being pumped, and the squat shape of the tanks facilitates pigeage Since 1999, more than half of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has taken place in barriques
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"In late July we realized there were too many grapes, so we did a second green harvest," said Alfred Tesseron. "Then we did yet another pass through the vines after the summer vacation to drop grapes that were less ripe." No mineral fertilizers are used here, the roots of the vines have been forced deeper into the soil, and the lower vine vigor has brought about lower pHs. The yield was 47 hectoliters per hectare in 2004, following three harvests with crop levels under 40 hectoliters per hectare. The result of Pontet-Canet's work in the vines was gloriously ripe cabernet, and the young 2004 is a wine of first growth quality.
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