2005 Pontet-Canet
France
Pauillac Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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2025 - 2045
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According to Alfred Tesseron, there were three generations of grapes during the drawn-out flowering, and after all the mildew problems of the summer and the elimination of fruit in early July there was still a huge range of ripeness on August 20. So he hired a team to cut off all the pale grapes, ultimately producing just 28 hectoliters per hectare. "You can't look at the economics on a year-to-year basis," he said, explaining his willingness to spend so much to make so little wine. "In the end, we had almost the same sugars in our cabernet sauvignon as in our merlot." Not surprisingly, the resulting wine is an outperformer for the vintage, once again. This was one of the few 2007s that really struck me with its pungent minerality. Bio brings minerality," said estate manager Jean-Michel Comme.
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Consumers who have been buying Pontet-Canet in recent years know that this superb chateau has been making wines of first-growth concentration and class. The 2006 is no exception, although it was a retaste of the 2005 in early April that had me speaking in tongues. Proprietor Alfred Tesseron told me he believes the team did a very good job harvesting in 2006, using small 7.5-kilo cagettes and taking its time: the harvest extended from September 19 until October 9. Ultimately, production was just 35 hectoliters per hectare of wine, the same amount as in 2005. The 2006 is actually higher in merlot than either 2005 or 2004, as Tesseron was happy with the quality of the 2006 merlot on his gravelly clay and limestone soils.
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A decade's worth of steady improvement and increasing attention to detail at Pontet-Canet has culminated in the estate's greatest wine in recent memory, from what proprietor Alfred Tesseron described as "a very slow harvest" and a crop level of just 35 hectoliters per hectare. With the 2005 vintage, said Tesseron, Pontet-Canet purchased a number of 80-hectoliter concrete fermenters. Small lots of juice can go into the tanks without being pumped, and the squat shape of the tanks facilitates pigeage Since 1999, more than half of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has taken place in barriques
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