2004 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

Winemaker Bob Cabral told me that crop levels were a bit higher in 2004 than in 2003, but were nonetheless a very reasonable 2. 2 to 2. 5 tons per acre. The 2004s, he feels, are longer wines, with broader, lusher tannins, while the 2003s, though concentrated, show higher acidity and somewhat awkward tannins today. Williams-Selyem is in the process of planting 32 acres of vines on its new property in Guerneville. The ultimate plan is to make a Russian River Valley bottling entirely from estate fruit, as owner John Dyson will seek to grow this brand by working with estate fruit. I was less taken than usual with this winery's new chardonnay releases, but the line-up of pinots and zinfandels includes a number of plums.