2010 Schweigener Kammerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs

Vintage variation is a phenomenon that Fritz Becker and his son have largely avoided at their estate on the border with Alsace. While the white wines here have improved noticeably in quality over the past few years, their name for most collectors is indelibly linked to pinot noir, a grape that seems to feel as much at home in Schweigen as it does in Burgundy. And in their hands it is capable of magic. Indeed, with Knipser at the northern end of the Pfalz, Huber in Baden and Furst in Franken, they are one of the four horses of the German pinot noir apocalypse. While I slightly preferred the 2008s and 2009s here, you can buy these wines blind. Even the entry-level pinot provides excellent value at $20 a bottle. Also recommended: 2011 Weissburgunder Kalkgestein (86), 2011 Weissburgunder Enggasse (88), 2011 Schweigener Sonnenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (89), 2011 Schweigener Muskat Ottonel (87), 2011 Gewurztraminer Spatlese (91), 2010 Spatburgunder "B" (85), 2010 Spatburgunder Rechtenbach (87), 2010 Spatburgunder Steinwingert (90), 2010 Spatburgunder Reserve (94). Other wines tasted: 2011 Silvaner, 2011 Grauburgunder Kalkmergel.