2006 Schweigener Kammerberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs

It has become almost embarrassing to reiterate, but for six years in a row now Fritz Becker has made Germany's finest pinot noir. In fact, in the ostensibly difficult 2006 vintage two of my top three and four of my dozen favorite red wines came from this estate. As Becker states, though, "we did not have the problems with rot that the rest of Germany did. " If German pinot noirs, which are certainly still among the world's most underrated examples of this variety, are to have a public face, it would be that of Friedrich Becker-and his friend Bernhard Huber in Baden. Moreover, the quality of white wines at Becker, even the dry riesling, continues to improve. You may never have heard of this estate, but you should search out the wines highlighted below. (Rudi Wiest) Also recommended: 2007 Riesling Holzgasse (87), 2007 Riesling Laisser Faire (87), 2007 Riesling Spatlese "69" (87), 2007 Pinot Gris Kalkmergel (88), 2007 Pinot Blanc In der Enggasse (90), 2007 Gewurztraminer Auslese (88), 2006 Spatburgunder "B" (87), 2006 Spatburgunder Kalkgestein (90), 2006 Schweigener Sonnenberg Sankt Paul Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs (94), 2006 Spatburgunder Reserve Only Sansibar (94).