2010 Grüner Veltliner Tradition

Anyone who has heard Michael Mossbrugger play Schubert's late piano sonatas cannot help but find more pleasure in the wines from this old Cistercian monastery. A shy artist, he does not like to talk about the wines he makes either, preferring to allow them to speak for themselves. But they are their own music and need no words. In terms of sheer harmony, to use the favorite word of Willi Bründlmayer, who is also a partner here, this is one of my favorite estates in the Kamptal. Its wines are seldom rich and certainly not alcoholic, thrive with little residual sugar and have a quenching drinkability that you do not often find in Austria. Although the rieslings from this estate can be equally sublime, I tasted only the grüner veltliners with Michael Mossbrugger during my short visit to the enchanting castle this summer. (www.goebelsburg.at). Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner (87)