2002 Grüner Veltliner Tradition
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Michael Moosbrugger now offers by a considerable measure his best collection ever.Not only are the ostensibly low-end 2002s excellent, but the big, rich wines from top sites are no longer troubled by high alcohol, bitterness, or poorly integrated oak as they have occasionally been in years past.Moosbrugger says he was more scrupulous this year about picking out botrytis-affected fruit, and that surely helped contribute to the clarity and balance of many of this year's best wines.Good as these 2002s are, though, they by no means eclipse an unusual, not-to-be-missed 2001 gruner veltliner Tradition on which I also report in detail below.(Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2002 Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz, 2002 Riesling Vom Urgestein.
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