2012 La Ricolma

So many of Tuscany’s most famous wines achieved their vaunted status by accident. That is the case with San Guido’s Sassicaia, which for several decades was made solely for the Incisa della Rocchetta family’s home consumption. In 1978, Piero Antinori had more Cabernet Sauvignon than he needed for his Tignanello, so he bottled it separately. That wine became Solaia. Masseto was an experimental wine when it was first produced in 1986 as Il Merlot dell’Ornellaia. What about San Giusto a Rentennano’s Merlot La Ricolma? Well, it turns out La Ricolma has a pretty interesting story too. This complete vertical of La Ricolma was the first ever complete retrospective ever held at the estate.

Readers are much more likely to find proprietor Luca Martini di Cigala in the vineyard than in the cellar. That, in its truest essence, is what San Giusto is all about. Artisan wines that reflect the vigneron culture, Tuscan style. The transformation at San Giusto over the last few years has been nothing short of remarkable. Martini di Cigala continues to develop new vineyards and refine his approach in the cellar. Small French oak barrels have pretty much been eliminated in favor of 500L and 30 and 40HL casks, which is allowing the extraordinary purity of these sites to come through like never before. The 2013s, which I tasted from barrel, are shaping up to be spectacular. But the 2012s, from a decidedly inferior vintage, aren't that far behind the pace. In many ways, it is the 2012s that show just how a high level San Giusto is at today. These are no longer among the most profound wines in Tuscany or Italy, for that matter. San Giusto is world-class. It's as simple as that.