2017 Rosso di Montalcino

For years, we’ve been hearing about the retirement of Francesco Leanza, the man who sought out and acquired the vineyards and home of the Salicutti estate in the southeast of Montalcino. Going back to the very beginning, his approach to organics was revolutionary in the region, as was his belief in the individual terroir of each of his vineyards. When the purchase of the winery was made by trusted friends Felix and Sabine Eichbauer, Leanza decided to stay on for a number of years to ensure that processes and level of quality that he had achieved could be followed. With Leanza no longer involved, one might be tempted to say that the new owners decided to change nothing, because usually that would be ideal, but in the case of the Eichbauers, the changes being made seem quite favorable. Behind the scenes, it’s the movement from organic to biodynamic vineyard practices. However, in a much more public way, it’s the use of all three vineyards to create a portfolio of Cru-designated Brunello. With the 2015 vintage, we’re treated to the Sorgente, Piaggione, and Teatro. While Piaggione will be recognized by fans of Salicutti, the Sorgente was, up until now, used to create their Rosso (one of the best in the region), while Teatro went into the house Brunello. One might also be tempted to say that the Brunello Piaggione might not be as impressive without the Teatro fruit, yet they’d be mistaken. From my tastings, Piaggione was a clear standout, and while I believe the Teatro will have much better days ahead (in future vintages), I can’t deny how enjoyable it was to taste. The wines continue to be matured in neutral tonneaux and moved into larger and larger casks during the aging process, showcasing the purity of their Southern Montalcino roots.