2012 Brunello di Montalcino Sorgente

Salicutti is without question one of the leading estates in Montalcino. The wines have always boasted extraordinary purity of fruit, but at times they also lacked precision, especially in the aromatics. That is no longer the case. Over the last few years, proprietor Francesco Leanza has given more care to the cleaning and maintenance of his casks. Today's wines are brilliant, precise and crystalline in their beauty, starting with a Rosso that is among the very best, to the Brunellos, which are full of personality. Then again, Salicutti is in a very privileged spot in Montalcino, adjacent to Brunelli's Podernovone property. Pretty much all of the emphasis is on farming, but it has to be the way, as the cellar is cramped to the point that there is only room for the bare necessities and a person or two. That's it. The Brunellos spend a year or so in 5HL and 10HL French oak casks and finish their aging in larger 20HL and 40HL casks, again mostly French oak, with Slavonian oak only for the largest casks. Leanza describes 2010 as a year with a normal summer and no extreme weather events. The fruit came in starting on October 7, which is a good ten days later than normal. Overall, the berries had very little juice, which resulted in high skin to juice ratios, while the wines were slow to mature in barrel. Readers who have not checked in on Salicutti in a few years owe it to themselves to do so. The wines are superb.