2012 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain

This has long been one of my favorite smaller producers in the Wachau, seldom making even 100,000 bottles a year from his 12 hectares of vineyards. Since Pichler returned home after a stint in California, he has always shunned botrytis and has endeavored to make wines that are pure and expressive. They still are that, but they have also grown richer and more unctuous. Not only has Pichler made no Steinfeder since 2008, his Smaragds also have more flesh than they once did. In 2011, he did not much suffer the problems with phenolics that were common in that warm, dry vintage, but his 2012s, which he describes as something between the excellent 2005 and 2006 vintages, are also not as "light, juicy and refreshing" as he would like us to believe. But they are bone-dry. As you will see below, I rate them highly, but they no longer have the immediate gregarious drinkability that they once did. Will they age better? I am not yet sure. Interestingly, Pichler started doing foot treading in 2012 in order to get better extraction with less bitterness. (www.rudipichler.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel (87), 2011 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel (86), 2012 Riesling Federspiel (87), 2011 Riesling Federspiel (86).