2016 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain

Vintage 2016 certainly played into Rudi Pichler’s proclivity for late harvest, though even he admits that “while the weather would have permitted us to extend picking into December, there was no point” given fruit that he already thinks reflects “one of the finest Wachau vintages of recent years.” It’s certainly among the finest-ever at his address. The vintage also suits Pichler in that despite late harvest, alcohol levels are moderate, something one can’t say about every Rudi Pichler collection. In terms of vinous personality, Pichler thinks of 2016 as combining the richness of 2015 “with the elegance of 2014 at its best.” As to his penchant for treating his musts to significant pre-fermentative skin contact, 2016 was no exception in that regard – though just how much as usual varies considerably by wine – and once again, many of his grapes were foot-trodden. As my notes suggest, a striking feature of Pichler’s 2016 collection is the pronounced difference in personality from one bottling – i.e., terroir – to another. (For details concerning this estate’s vineyards, practices and recent history, readers are invited to consult the extended introduction to my report on its 2013s.)