2001 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain

The last couple times I have seen Rudi Pichler, the first words on his lips were about the Achleiten site in Weissenkirchen. Two years ago, he was able to purchase a small parcel of Riesling with 70-year-old vines. Recently, he leased an even older neighboring block of Grüner Veltliner. Together, these two new arrows in his quiver have given this estate, which has long been one of my favorite smaller producers in the Wachau, a strike force beyond the Hochrain and Kollmütz vineyards that were long his best.

While the long, cold winter and berry shatter at flowering limited his yields in 2013, he is understandably pleased with the quality. Given the lively acidity levels of his grapes, he reduced the duration of his cold soaks, but all of the Smaragds were crushed by foot--a practice not often seen in Austria--in order to have better extraction with less bitterness. While Pichler says that the 2013 Rieslings were difficult at the outset, they were showing beautifully when I tasted them in February.

“I am still not sure if 2013 is a better vintage for Riesling or Grüner Veltliner,” he told me, “but both will age gracefully.” I rate these bone-dry wines highly but they need time.

This year was even tougher than last when it came tox000D picking around any rot (and organizing the manpower to do it), particularlyx000D with gruner veltliner. Pichler's highlyx000D selective harvest, along with judicious use of pre-fermentative skin contact,x000D made for a collection with plenty of stuffing and clarity. (Vin Divino) Also recommended: 2001 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder, 2001 Riesling Federspiel.