2011 Barolo Sarmassa

Roberto and Davide Voerzio's 2011 Barolos are some of the most sumptuous wines of the vintage. The ripe, racy style of the year plays to the estate's strengths, so it's not surprising to see the wines show so well, as they often have in richer years. At the same time, the stylistic shift here since 2008 is noticeable. The Barolos are now aged in equal parts French oak and casks, which introduces an element of classicism that is quite attractive. Only the very small production wines, those bottled in magnum, are aged exclusively in barrique, as the volumes are too small to fill casks. As always, readers should expect generous, ample wines. Always perfectionists, the Voerzios were not entirely happy with their 2011 Cerequio, so they did not bottle it, a choice very few growers would make today. The Voerzios did not present their 2011 Barolo Capalot, which leads me to believe they ultimately will not sell that wine commercially, as they had suggested when I tasted through the range prior to bottling.

Roberto and Davide Voerzio's 2011s are gorgeous. Even with all of their richness, these 2011s transmit plenty of site specific character, not to mention the vision of one of Piedmont's most inspired and creative artisan growers. Most of the Barolos are now aged in equal parts botti and French oak barrique, with the exception of the smaller-production wines that are also bottled in magnum. Voerzio is often mistakenly lumped in with the modern school of producers in Barolo. While Voerzio's Barolos are built on texture, with a few exceptions (such as the 1996 and 1997 vintages) the wines have never fallen prey to the excesses of that style of winemaking. Over the years, Voerzio's Barolos have proven to age exceptionally well, even in the smallest of vintages. I tasted all of Roberto Voerzio's 2011s from tank on two separate occasions prior to bottling. Sadly, Voerzio did not bottle his Cerequio in 2011.