2010 Barolo Sarmassa

Roberto and Davide Voerzio's 2010 Barolos are off the charts. These are some of most spectacular wines I have ever tasted from Voerzio. For more historical perspective, readers might enjoy revisiting this extensive retrospective from a few years back. Voerzio fans will note a few small changes to the range. The Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata is now pure Rocche, which is a good thing as the addition of fruit from Torriglione in my view did not add anything positive given the extraordinary purity and specificity of Rocche, one of Barolo's truly great sites. The fruit from Torriglione is going into a new old-vines bottling just from that site that replaces the Barolo Riserva Capalot/Vecchie Viti delle Brunate, which Voerzio is no longer making after having lost his lease in Capalot. Since 2008, the Barolos and the Barbera Pozzo have been aged in equal parts cask and French oak, which has given the wines a little more classicism, not much of a surprise considering the Barolos Roberto Voerzio himself holds in the highest esteem. The exceptions are the Sarmassa and the Torriglione, both of which are made in small quantities and bottled only in magnum. For my money, Voerzio's Barolo Cerequio is one of the truly iconic wines of Barolo. Recent bottles of the 2000 and 2008 have been simply stunning. Voerzio fans can expect to see production increase in the coming years. Roberto Voerzio has recently purchased a handful of vineyards - since replanted - from his brother Gianni.