2001 Barolo Sarmassa

Contrary to the vast majority of growers, Roberto Voerzio has always maintained that 2000 was a better vintage for him than 2001. After having tasted both vintages extensively over the last few years, its pretty clear Voerzio is right. The 2001s haven't held up as well as the 2000s I reviewed last year and are developing at a faster pace. Not surprisingly, both of the Baroli Voerzio bottles only in magnum have developed particularly gracefully.

Roberto Voerzio's philosophy is all about the vineyard, where he maintains what are by far the most dramatically low yields to be seen in the Barolo zone. Although Voerzio prefers barriques for aging his wines, vinification remains fairly traditional with fermentations lasting 15 days or so. After the alcoholic fermentation is complete the wines are racked into stainless steel for their malos, which Voerzio prefers for its cleanliness. The cellar is warmed to induce the malolactic fermentations and the malos are usually completed by the end of the fall. The wines are then moved into barriques where they age prior to being bottled without the aid of fining/filtration. Pure and expressive in a style that is neither modern nor traditional, these are wines that reflect the highly individual style of their maker as well as the profound voice of La Morra's finest sites. Voerzio is one of the few producers who prefers hotter vintages, saying “for me 1997, 2000, and 2003 are the best vintages of the last ten years.” That said, I prefer his 2001s, as I find the more as well as complete. The wines have livelier color, and more freshness, complexity and length, although they are also less immediate than the 2000s. Voerzio's 2001 Barolos will require patience, and the more approachable wines should start to drink well around age eight to ten.