2005 Riesling Kabinett

Although Weil's dry rieslings cannot quite match the depth of Leitz's examples, he nevertheless brought forth the finest overall collection of wines in the Rheingau this year. What makes this all the more surprising is the total size of the estate, now totaling more than 150 acres and producing 500,000 bottles a year. No one else in Germany can match that feat. Although the finest dessert wines at this address have been sublime for over a decade, I was once critical of the bread-and-butter wines made here. But the estate has improved at that level, too. Two thousand five is not its greatest vintage, but there is very little here that I would regret having in my cellar. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA) Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Trocken (85), 2005 Kiedricher Grafenberg Rieslin g Kabinett Trocken (87), 2005 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (89), 2005 Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (87) and 2005 Riesling Spatlese (88). Other wines tasted: 2004 Riesling Trocken.