1998 Riesling Kabinett

"At the time the November frost hit," relates Wilhelm Weil, "we had perhaps 20 hectares, or two-fifths, of our grapes still hanging. Half of that we harvested as Eiswein. Then we continued right through the new year, picking the last grapes early in February. Long, slow ripening was decisive for the quality of the '98s. So was the steady, drying wind that came over the Taunus hills and swept regularly through our vineyards. Even with the best of intentions, a vintner cannot often achieve the sort of mineral density and acid balance that long ripening and dry wind made possible this year. It is a gift of nature. Frankly, the quality of the fruit was so fine and there was so little rot that the early, pre-harvest work in October was practically just to keep the crews occupied." The plastic protective measures undertaken in the Weil vineyards, as I have previously discussed, may strike some observers as simply unfair moves in the game with nature. But there can be no doubt about the quality thereby achieved in the glass. (Rudi Wiest)