2009 Syrah

As the harvest here on Spring Mountain is almost always quite late, it can be a challenge to bring in the fruit before the effects of autumn rains. In 2009, which winemaker Sally Johnson describes as a "cooler year," the estate was concerned about the rains that interrupted the red wine harvest, but Johnson is happy about the accurate varietal character of the wines, even if she doesn't think the property's merlot is in its normally firm, almost cabernet-like style. She added that 2010 brought bigger cabernet than 2009 in terms of structure and flavor intensity. Pride attempted to harvest viognier early in 2011 "to knock down the sugars and the oily character," according to Steve Price, but the later parcels were affected by botrytis and had to be eliminated. Incidentally, Johnson told me she's trying to "rein in" Pride's previously very rich, full-bodied chardonnay by picking the fruit a bit earlier and allowing a lower percentage of the wine to go through malolactic fermentation. In recent years, I've visited Pride on a Saturday in March, and the tasting room is typically hopping. Steve Pride told me that the winery now sells 82% of its wine direct to consumers, including 30% out of the winery itself. Also recommended: 2010 Viognier Sonoma County (86).