2011 Viognier Estate

Peay is in the middle of nowhere. Literally. Reaching the sprawling, rugged estate is an adventure in and of itself. A collection of hillside sites with multiple exposures set within acres on undeveloped forest, Peay is one of the most marginal sites for growing grapes, even within the context of the Sonoma Coast. Two tons per acre, the bare minimum for most vineyards, is a rare occurrence. The wines, though, are usually terrific and often magnificent. Nick Peay looks after the vineyard, while his wife, Vanessa Wong, makes the wines. Andy Peay, Nick's brother, runs the business. Peay's 2011s show the limits of the cool growing season, as they lack a little of the depth that is found in the more succulent and expressive 2012s. Readers who have not discovered Peay owe it to themselves to do so. The Pinots in particular are worthy of note.