2011 Riesling Muenchberg Grand Cru

As an example of how small the world of wine is, I first met Andre Ostertag in 1991 in Oregon, of all places, when we both attended one of the earliest editions of the annual International Pinot Noir Celebration. Ostertag is a real fan of sylvaner, and is especially keen on the red-berried variant of the cultivar (of which Josmeyer owns a lot, too), which he feels is superior to the more common green one, though I should note that not all Alsace producers agree with this view. In any case, Ostertag has always had a real affinity for this variety, even going as far as making an SGN from it once (a wine called "Le Mystere du Mouton Masque"), although he admits he's not sure he'll ever do one again. "Sylvaner is best consumed fresh and young," he told me. "It's a great Alsace wine that is part of our tradition, extremely food-friendly. Given that plantings are dwindling, we risk losing it, but that would be a huge mistake." Today Ostertag owns a total of 14.8 hectares, with vineyards spread out over five different villages; his 2011 and 2010 wines are some of his best ever. Also recommended: 2010 Vignoble d'E Riesling (86), 2010 Pinot Gris Barriques (86).