2012 Riesling Hochäcker

Most wine tourists drive along the banks of the Danube past Langenlois on to Vienna. Few wander up the winding roads of the Krems Valley to Senftenberg. Here, beneath an old castle perched on the hilltop, is where Martin Nigl has the lion's share of his 25 hectares of vineyards. The cooler climate and weathered granite soils are reminiscent of the Wachau, which is not surprising as it was once part of that region. Martin Nigl himself is thin and decidedly reserved, a stark contrast to his wines, which can be quite rich in spite of their nervous backbone. That is perhaps why he prefers cooler vintages such as 2010, 2004 and 2001. I can only agree. As his wines are sold at very consumer-friendly prices, it is not surprising that they have become perennial favorites in the American market. (www.weingutnigl.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner Freiheit (85), 2012 Riesling Dornleiten (85), 2012 Riesling Piri (86), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Piri (87), 2010 Pinot Noir (89).