2011 Chardonnay Estate

Hirsch is one of the most dramatic sites I have ever seen. Anywhere. The drive from Peay to Hirsch, with its dipping, curvy roads and spectacular views of the Pacific, is unforgettable. Don't worry about taking your cell phone. It won't work out here anyway. The sprawling estate covers 1,000 acres, of which 68 are under vine. David Hirsch's intuition to plant Pinot has turned out to be a divine inspiration, as this is without question one of the very best sites for Pinot Noir anywhere in California. Ross Cobb makes wines that are distinctive and loaded with personality. Hirsch is moving to 100% estate fruit. The Bohan Dillon Pinot, which in the past incorporated purchased fruit, is now 100% estate, while Hirsch is selling less fruit to other wineries. The 2011 Pinots are quite pretty, but they look to be built for the near and medium term. As always the Pinots were made with native fermentations and bottled with no fining or filtration. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2012 Chardonnay and Bohan Dillon, as neither wine had been bottled at the time of my tastings. Readers who haven't discovered the Hirsch Pinots owe it to themselves to do so. At their best, these are some of the most compelling wines being made anywhere in the world.

David Hirsch provided what is in my opinion one of the key insights into the 2011 vintage on the Sonoma Coast. Hirsch commented that 2010 and 2011 were both similar. In 2010, he noted the skies were cloudy for much of the year, while rain just before harvest complicated things. Hirsch describes 2011 as a year with very clear skies, a lot of light and cool temperatures that never exceeded 90 degrees. As for the wines, well, they are gorgeous. I have not tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but based on the Bohan Dillon, I will not be surprised if they turn out a bit better than the 2010s, which are a bit on the slender side. Still, there can be no question this is one of the premier sites for Pinot in the United States. Ross Cobb blended and bottled the 2009s, while 2010 is the first vintage Cobb made from beginning to end.