2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Spéciale

Bastien Tardieu, who is still a few years shy of 30, is now working side by side with his father Michel in the family's negociant business and bringing his winemaking training, which included a stint with the winery's enologist Philippe Cambie, into play. "While there's no reason to change the style and identity of the wines," he told me, he is looking for as much energy and flavor without excess weight as possible. The wines here rely heavily on their old vine sources, he says, so he is keen to maintain ties to their growers "because it's very easy for a small house to be shut out when a big, rich producer comes along and wants to move in on the best fruit. The more it becomes a money game the more important it is to have solid relationships." He reiterated that defining "old vines" here changes every year because his father says that vines that are younger than him aren't old. Speaking of maintaining continuity, the Tardieus have decided to keep the Tardieu-Laurent name even though former partner Dominique Laurent is long gone. "That's the name that made our reputation and we decided that it's better to stick with stability than the alternative," said Bastien.

As Michel Tardieu is no longer involved in any way with Dominique Laurent, as of the 2010 vintage this operation will be called "Familie Tardieu." Tardieu's son Bastien is now fully involved in the firm's day-to-day operations, and since he trained under Tardieu's long-time collaborator, Philippe Cambie, don't expect any sea changes here. That said, I have sensed a lighter hand with the oak here in recent years, which I believe is for the better, especially given the fact that so many of these wines (and not just these!) are being drunk before their third or fourth birthday, especially at restaurants. I'm always amused when I hear about people having a wonderful, unexpected experience with a ten-year old or older Tardieu wine and inevitably exclaiming "it wasn't even oaky!"