2023 Condrieu

Philippe Guigal and his team remain at the top of their game. The 2020 Côte-Rôtie trio of La Mouline, La Turque and La Landonne is flat-out stunning. Concentrated, complex and precise, yet totally fragrant, energetic and balanced, all three make it all seem so effortless. While the 2021 and 2022 La-La-La-La’s (don’t forget the new La Reynarde) remain in barrel, I got a chance to check in on the 2023s. Showing more initial ripeness than 2021 yet a little less flavor concentration and boldness than the 2022s, the 2023s are developing their own distinctive personality, and I’ll be delighted to watch them grow. I was also curious about how the 2021 Château d'Ampuis would perform, given its awkward showing from barrel last year. Now in bottle, it has come together nicely, showcasing a cooler-vintage-style restraint that’s going to be cherished by collectors when compared to surrounding vintages. Other highlights from this broad tasting include the expressive 2023 Condrieu La Doriane as well as the stellar 2020 Ermitage Ex-Voto. Before leaving, I also caught up with the now 81-year-old Marcel Guigal. Charming and polite as ever, I was glad to see him doing well.