2015 Condrieu

“Two thousand thirteen is a red wine vintage that deserves patience,” Philippe Guigal believes. “The wines are structured and the tannins are firm, which is great for aging but not so much for drinking now or any time soon,” he added. That’s quite unlike the 2012s here, which are wines that already lead with fruit. It might come as a surprise to many to learn just how important white wine production is here. Guigal produces almost half of all the Condrieu made now, which is pretty remarkable, and while their “basic” bottling represents outstanding value by the appellation’s standard, the real hidden gem here is the Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc. The 2015 version, which is made from 65 percent Viognier, along with Roussanne and Marsanne, is an outstanding value in northern Rhône white wine. It drinks a lot like a Condrieu, in fact, with the Viognier component coming through loud and clear. Guigal’s 2014s are shaping up to be forward, fresh and fruit-driven, in the style of the 2012s. Philippe thinks that they will definitely be wines to drink before the 2013s. But he also thinks that because of their energy, they will surprise many people with their ability to age gracefully. “Look at some vintages of the 80s and 90s that people said were light and to drink early, like ’87 and ’97, and how well many of the wines turned out.” Those who favor rich, weighty wines might not be impressed, he said, “but if you like Syrah in an elegant style, then 2014 will be a very pleasant experience.”