2003 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg

The illustrious Freie Weingartner Wachau now bottles most of their wines, including those exported to the U. S. , under the name "Domane Wachau. "Under the direction of Roland Grossinger and Hannes Donabaum, the team here has again produced a collection studded with excellent values, although certain wines disappointed-including, surprisingly, a Smaragd Achleiten which, while aromatically clear and pure, failed to project much personality. The 2003 harvest began in late August, the earliest in this cooperative's history, in an effort to ensure a stock of light and refreshing Steinfeder wines. But riesling, relates Grossinger, lagged far behind gruner veltliner in maturation, and in rare instances was still stuck at Steinfeder level in October, even as the first gruner veltliner at Smaragd level was being harvested. At most two or three hours in the press represented more than enough skin contact this year, Grossinger said. (Vin Divino, Chicago, IL) Also recommended: 2003 Gelber Muskateller Steinfeder (under the Freie Weingartner label), 2003 Riesling Steinfeder Terrassen, 2003 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben, 2003 Riesling/Muskateller Clarissima.