2017 Auxey-Duresses Village

Wine Details
Place of Origin

France

Auxey Duresses

Burgundy

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Pinot Noir

Reviews & Tasting Notes

00

Drinking Window

2021 - 2025

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This is a domaine that I have followed since before writing about wine. Over the years I have witnessed immense improvement in quality under Romain Taupenot, as evidenced by a vertical of Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte in May 2018. Theirs is a classic style of Burgundy, lighter perhaps than some of their peers in Morey-Saint-Denis, consistently fresh and tensile with ever-increasing terroir expression.

“We started the harvest on September 6 and finished around September 17,” Taupenot informed me. “It was nice to go back to a normal crop. I was worried about the risk of frost. There was early flowering and then there was a dry summer that created some millerandage. The yields range from 46hl/ha for the Village Cru, 42-44hl/ha for the Premier Cru and 35-40hl/ha for the Grand Cru. I was a bit anxious that 2017 might lack some freshness but it doesn’t at all and feels very terroir-driven. The vintage reminds me of the 2007s in terms of its floral touch, but with more concentration.”

There are a clutch of wonderful wines from Taupenot-Merme, and not just at the top of the hierarchy. Granted, the Mazoyères-Chambertin is extremely fine, but here is (yet another) very impressive Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers and one of the finest Corton-Rognets that I have encountered from the domaine. The Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau approaches Grand Cru in terms of quality, whilst few Village Crus from any domaine can match Taupenot’s Gevrey-Chambertin. Some of the crus’ potential may have been limited by the growing season, but these 2017s consolidate Taupenot-Merme’s position as one of the most reliable and exciting estates.