2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Village
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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It was great to meet up with Christophe Perrot-Minot, as I missed him last time around. Perrot-Minot is one of the most exciting domaines in Burgundy. Since 2006-2007 Christophe Perrot-Minot has begun to back away from the dark, concentrated wines he used to make, and the results are stunning. The fruit sees 5-7 days cold soak. Today Perrot-Minot does one punch down every two days, whereas previously he did three per day. In 2010 yields were down a whopping 45%. Over the last few years Perrot-Minot has expanded the range with a number of wines made from purchased fruit, including several that are sourced from Pierre Damoy. I tasted the Bourgogne, Gevrey and Chambolle from tank and the rest of the wines from barrel. I also tasted a number of 2009s that were fabulous. I will report on those wines in my April article.
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Christophe Perrot-Minot noted that 2010 was his smallest vintage to date, with quantities down an average of 45% from 2009. He normally bottles about 240 barrels of wine, and in 2010 he will offer just 126. As a rule, yields were in the 25 hectoliters-per-hectare range. Perrot-Minot told me he did just one punchdown per day, compared to three a day back in 2000. Like many of his peers who attempted to make an impression with superconcentrated wines in the early stages of their careers, he has cut back dramatically on extraction and relied more on the quality of his fruit. None of the 2010s had been racked at the time of my November visit and all of the wines were still in barrel, except for the Morey-Saint-Denis en la Rue de Vergy. Perrot-Minot was relying on the CO2 gas to protect the freshness and definition of the fruit, which he says works well when the tannins are very fine and the wine is essentially delicate. This looks like a splendid vintage for this estate, almost certainly for drinking after the 2009s, which are more approachable today.
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