2000 Gevrey-Chambertin Village
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Christophe Perrot-Minot is not the only Burgundy grower who seems willing to continue to raise his prices: he hiked prices 10% for the 2000s and expected to raise them another 20% for the 2001s. But he was more explicit about his strategy than most producers: Burgundy is a luxury product, coming from some of the greatest vineyards on earth, and I made the decision to cut the crop even more in order to make the best possible wines, even if I have to raise prices." Perrot-Minot told me he doubled his green harvesting in 2001; his target yield is now 35 hectoliters per hectare, even in the village wines. (Crop levels in 2002 were all under 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Perrot.) In theory, Perrot-Minot relies more on his raw materials today (he also benefits from a high percentage of very old vines) and less on cellar technique. He still does a long pre-fermentation cold maceration but carries out much less pigeage and less intervention in general. Tasting here is now a mini-marathon, what with the new wines made from the Pernin-Rossin domain that Perrot purchased in 2000. The 2001s had not yet been racked at the time of my early November visit.
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Having recently purchased the old Pernin-Rossin domain, Christophe Perrot-Minot now has 14 hectares of vines and can offer an impressive range of wines from the most important villages of the Cote de Nuits. Like a number of his colleagues who originally attracted attention to their wines by using extractive techniques in search of color and power, Perrot-Minot says he using less manipulation and less new oak today, relying instead on vineyard practices like green harvesting to get riper grapes earlier and preserve terroir character. He was able to start picking on the first day of the 2000 harvest, and he believes that this allowed him to avoid the heaviness and surmaturite that characterized the '97s. Perrot-Minot still does an extended cold maceration by chilling the entire cellar down to 52 or 53 degrees. He also believes in chaptalizing a little bit, even when potential alcohol levels in the grapes reach 13%, in order to prolong the fermentation and get more gras and complexity. The current set of wines from this cellar offers a lovely combination of sweetness, purity and texture.