1997 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
France
Chassagne Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Niellon describes the '97s as fragile wines; to protect them, he kept them under gas until the end of the malolactic fermentations, then sulfited them. Still, this vintage appears to have more backbone than the '94s. I found Niellon top '96s, particularly his two grand crus, to be of stunning quality. The '96s taste drier than the '95s, says Niellon, because of their higher acidity despite the fact that the '96 fruit featured even higher sugar levels than the fruit of '97.
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