2020 Meursault Les Grands Charrons

“It is difficult to understand the acidity in 2020,” Michel Bouzereau told me when I called in at his winery in Meursault. He opened his handwritten diary that records the meteorological minutiae, a mine of information. “It’s bizarre. It was less hot than in 2019 as there were periods above 40°C that year. For us, we have the impression that the vines have adapted. Pleine fleur was May 21–22, when it was 30°C. A month later it was 33°C, and August 7–13 it peaked at 35°C. There were small showers during August to keep the vegetative cycle going. I started picking on August 20, beginning in Beaune Les Vignes Franches, Meursault Limozin and Chassagne Cailleret, and finished on August 29. The malolactic was quick for the reds, finishing in January, and for the whites, it was also quite rapid, finishing by January. The whites have finesse and elegance, good substance and freshness. It’s difficult to compare it to another vintage – it’s probably too early for that.” I don't believe the market has caught up with the quality of Bouzereau’s wines, as demonstrated by this latest crop. Wonderful balance, pure fruit, judicious use of oak – these personify exactly what I seek in Meursault. Perhaps the reds do not possess the Pinoté of other vintages, and my scores reflect that. But the whites are well worth seeking out, as they remain reasonably priced. The Les Perrières was one of the best that I tasted, and the Genevrières is also top-drawer.