2019 Meursault Les Grands Charrons

It was persisting down with rain when I arrived at Domaine Michel Bouzereau for my annual tasting. Arriving half an hour early gave me a few minutes to dry out as Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau prepared the samples. Opening his handwritten book detailing the minutiae of the growing season, he told me: “On the 5 April there was some frost, but only in the Bourgogne Blanc in Puligny. Flowering was around 5-6 June and it was quite warm. This caused some coulure and millerandage, even though the final yields were around the same as in 2018. There were two spells of heat: temperatures reached 38°C between 22 and 26 July and then the heat returned just before harvest. Thankfully there were occasional showers during July. I started the harvest on 6 September in Puligny Caillerets and the full team started three days later, finishing on 16 September. The Chardonnay reached between 13.8° and 14.3° of alcohol, but with good acidity and normal pH, around 3.1 to 3.2. There was less juice than in 2018 so there was a lot of concentration; a profile that I think makes them vin de garde - quite serious. The pressing was fine because the condition of bunches was healthy, and the stems helped eke out any juice. The 2018 is flattering and sensual, and 2019 is maybe more serious, classic in style, and might drink earlier.” I have been a big fan of this domaine for many years and in my opinion Bouzereau deserves more kudos. These are beautifully crafted, flavoursome wines that express their terroirs succinctly, maybe a touch weightier than other growers but always with sufficient tension. This is one address where the Meursault Genevrières was not going to allow Les Perrières to win all the honours and they are neck-and-neck in terms of quality, and only slight ahead of his splendid Les Tessons – Premier Cru in all but name.