2001 Meursault Les Grands Charrons
France
Meursault
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Fichet is high on the 2001 vintage, "but it's not for drinking now. Both 2000 and 1999 can be consumed with pleasure already, and even the 2002s will be for drinking before the 2001s." He went on to compare the 2002 and 2001 whites to Burgundy's 1990 and 1991 reds. The 1990 reds and 2002 whites are good early drinkers, while the 1991 reds and 2001 whites need time." The 2002s were at all stages of their development in late spring, and I focused on the handful of wines that had finished their secondary fermentations. Fichet had stopped stirring the lees, as he considered the wines rich enough already; he noted that he stirred the lees of the 2001s until August of last year because the wines began quite nerveux and bracing. Not surprisingly, Fichet's 2002s are wonderfully scented and precise. (Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; Glazer's Wholesale Distributors, Dallas, TX; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; A. Bommarito Wines, St. Louis, MO; and The Wine House Limited, San Francisco, CA)
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As of early June, Boillot professed to prefer 2000 to 1999 and 2001 for white wine. The '99s are generous wines, but marked by the high yields of the vintage. The '01s are pleasing, fruity wines with higher grape sugars and slightly lower acidity than the 2000s. But the 2000s are the purest and most precise of the trio [Boillot told me last year that he found the young 2000s a bit less pure than the '99s], and the best expression of terroir They're serious wines without quite the flattering aspect of the 2001s." Boillot went on to describe the '01s as rather delicate wines whose sound acid levels extend their flavors. It wasn't an easy year, as there were a lot of extremes during the season. And the wines are absorbing the sulfur quickly." Boillot was still stirring the lees in late spring and planned to continue this practice virtually up until the bottling. A few of the wines I tasted were a bit cloudy from recent batonnage
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