2004 Nuits-Saint-Georges
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2019 - 2024
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Lalou Bize-Leroy, who has rarely met a vintage she didn't like, was especially excited over 2005, a year she described as magnificent, with a "beautiful balance for both red and white wines." She made barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, which she described as "not bad for us." The 2005 reds, she went on, are like a combination of 1996 and 1999. "But it's its own vintage," she told me. My tasting in November was exhilarating. Although the lofty quality of these wines is apparent today, at the grand cru level they should be laid down for a decade or more, and they may well go on for decades. Lalou Bize has gained mostly positive press for declassifying all of her 2004s into a Bourgogne rouge and four village bottlings, as she did not believe the wines merited their normal appellations. (I suspect that, among other reasons, she did not believe the wines were sufficiently primary to convey their various origins clearly.) This involved a significant financial sacrifice, but of course these wines are still far from cheap: for the three hundred bucks or so you'll have to spend on one of these village wines, you could buy virtually any other premier cru-or grand cru-from Burgundy.
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