2009 Chablis Saint Martin

Following the purchase in the fall of 2009 of all of Michel Laroche's wine ventures by the Languedoc-based negociant Jeanjean, there have been many changes in personnel here. Long-time Laroche winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye left in March, and Gregory Viennois, head viticulturalist and winemaker for Laroche's projects in Chablis, Languedoc, South Africa and Chile, was in charge here. (Just before press-time, Stephan Derenoncourt, consulting enologist for numerous Bordeaux properties, was hired for his viticultural know-how, as Laroche plans to return to making wines with wild yeasts.) According to Viennois, the 2010s here have more intense bouquets than the 2008s, "but a similar profile. The rot was spreading quickly in September, so we moved up our harvest by a full week," beginning on September 22. Laroche vinifies in about 30% oak barrels, one-quarter of which are new, then moves the wines into tank in June.