2007 Chablis Saint Martin

Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye describes the 2008s as "tender, supple, open wines, more accessible than the 2007s." He doesn't believe that they're as deep or concentrated as the '06s, though. Potential alcohol levels were in the 12% to 12.2% range, but very little chaptalization was done. De la Bourdonnaye told me he did a lot of lees stirring duntil early May "to obtain a full concentration of the vintage's qualities." But he noted that he carried out even more batonnage with the 2007s, as he had to compensate for doing an especially long debourbage. "There was the danger at the beginning of getting a vegetal aspect in the 2007s," he said. "After the first day of debourbage the wines were already clear but were still too dry, so we let them settle for a second day." De la Bourdonnaye describes the 2007s as elegant wines that will open six months later than average. "They were austere at the beginning, but it's a lovely pure vintage to age, a perfect vintage to forget in your cellar. Starting with clean juice was critical. In 2007, you couldn't hide any mistakes." Laroche now bottles nearly all of its wines with screwcaps, and de la Bourdonnaye noted that this approach should be perfect for preserving the freshness and precision of the 2007s. (Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY) Also recommended: 2008 Petit Chablis (86).

Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye told me that Laroche began harvesting its domain vines in 2007 on September 12, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol between 11.6% and 12% at the premier cru level (or about a degree lower than in 2006). "But the grapes were completely mature, and we did not chaptalize," he explained. "It was necessary to do a long settling of the must, a full 48 hours. After the first day, the must was clear but in the mouth there was still a phenolic dryness; the must was not dirty but it wasn't elegant either. We needed to add nutrients to help the yeasts do their work. We then kept the fine lees and did a lot of batonnage. The wines today are very clean but not especially rich." De la Bourdonnaye describes the 2006s as fresh and tender wines from a warm year. "But these wines are much easier to drink than the 2005s," he added, "and the 2007s will probably have more aging potential." He was reluctant to show a couple of his young 2007s, as the crus had not yet been blended and some wines were about to get a passage in oak. "We use a bit of barrel at the end to enlarge the wines' aromatic palate," he explained. "We age our wines on their fine lees, and we're now giving them more oxygen before they're bottled, because we use screwcaps and we want to avoid reduction."