2008 Chablis Saint Martin

The Languedocnegociant and wine producer Jeanjean purchased all of Michel Laroche's wine business, including his operations in Chile, South Africa and the Languedoc, just before the harvest of 2009. But Denis de la Bourdonnaye is still making the wines at Domaine Laroche and reports that there have been no changes under the new owners. De la Bourdonnaye believes he made a classic style of Chablis in 2009. Laroche harvested on the late side, because "the fruit was close to ripe but still needed time," he told me. "Everyone was impatient." De la Bourdonnaye chose to wait for more ripeness, even sacrificing acidity, then added a bit of tartaric acid in the press. He describes the 2009s as "a blend of the rich, ripe, full 2005s and the more acid 2004s." As always, he emphasized that the 2009 crus he showed me were approximations of the final wines, and that the final blends would not be made until late June or July.

Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye describes the 2008s as "tender, supple, open wines, more accessible than the 2007s." He doesn't believe that they're as deep or concentrated as the '06s, though. Potential alcohol levels were in the 12% to 12.2% range, but very little chaptalization was done. De la Bourdonnaye told me he did a lot of lees stirring duntil early May "to obtain a full concentration of the vintage's qualities." But he noted that he carried out even more batonnage with the 2007s, as he had to compensate for doing an especially long debourbage. "There was the danger at the beginning of getting a vegetal aspect in the 2007s," he said. "After the first day of debourbage the wines were already clear but were still too dry, so we let them settle for a second day." De la Bourdonnaye describes the 2007s as elegant wines that will open six months later than average. "They were austere at the beginning, but it's a lovely pure vintage to age, a perfect vintage to forget in your cellar. Starting with clean juice was critical. In 2007, you couldn't hide any mistakes." Laroche now bottles nearly all of its wines with screwcaps, and de la Bourdonnaye noted that this approach should be perfect for preserving the freshness and precision of the 2007s. (Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY) Also recommended: 2008 Petit Chablis (86).