2014 Meursault Perrières 1er Cru

“A great white wine vintage, powerfully marked by terroir” is the way enologist Nadine Gublin described the estate’s 2014s. “The wines have great energy and purity, like the juicier 2002s. The ‘14s are in the top quality category with the 2010s. Actually, they're a bit more enveloping than the 2010s, which were dominated by their acidity early on. The '14s have more texture.” She went on: “It’s a balanced vintage with moderate alcohol and good acidity; the wines have finesse and elegance and they have really blossomed during their élevage. They have kept a lot of their primary side and should age well."

For his part, owner Edouard Labruyère believes that the ‘14s are “to drink now or in ten years.” Acidity levels in 2014 are typically in the 3.9 to 4.0 grams-per-liter range. About half of the 2014s were bottled in April and May; I tasted the rest of them from tank, where they were being prepared for bottling at the end of June.