2002 Meursault Perrières 1er Cru

The winemaking team at Domaine Prieur acidified their very rich 2003s twice during the fermentations. Due to the very thick juice (the lees were almost mustard-yellow in color, noted Martin Prieur), the estate did a full 24-hour settling of the must, and then less batonnage than usual. I have limited my notes below to the 2003s that were at least nearly through their malolactic fermentations (the secondary fermentations are typically late to finish in this deep, very cold cellar). Sugar levels were a solid 14% for the Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet Combettes but more like 13. 5% for the Meursault Perrieres. Interestingly, enologist Nadine Gublin maintains, as do a number of her colleagues, that there's very little oxidizable material in the 2003s, and that the wines may surprise with their longevity. The estate's 2002s, a few of which did not finish their malolactic fermentations until September of 2003, have turned out impressively. (W. J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains NY

In general, the 2002s are not overripe, Martin Prieur maintained, but there was a big decline in malic acidity around September 14 and 15, as the grapes ripened rapidly from the wind and sun. Crop levels were down from those of the previous year: in the 35 hectoliters-per-hectare range for the grand crus in 2002. A few of Domaine Prieur's 2001s were still in tank awaiting the bottling at the beginning of June. This is not at all a fragile year," pointed out enologist Nadine Gublin. The 2001 white wines may not be quite as pure as the 2000s, but they are more vibrant and more dense, with greater aging potential." Still, she added, the uneven growing season required a lot of work in the vines, and ripening was irregular, even within the same grape clusters.