2013 Meursault Perrières 1er Cru

Owner Edouard Labruyère described 2014 as a year with “catastrophic quantities, even less fruit than in 2013. Meursault got the worst of the hail, but Beaune was terrible too.” Quality was another matter: “It was perfect for the white wines. They have density and finesse and very good balance.” My reviews of the '14s will have to wait until next year, however, as they were just beginning their malolactic fermentations at the beginning of June.

Domaine Prieur’s top 2013s have turned out very well, although a few wines were still in cuve at the time of my visit. Enologist Nadine Gublin told me they have as much acidity as the 2010s; in fact, she described the ‘13s as “perhaps a small 2010." She did not chaptalize the wines as she wanted to privilege the fruit. And she noted that “you don’t need to stir the lees if you do a long élevage, as we do here," not to mention that she did not want to get oxidative aromas. She added that the 2013s showed a lot of surmaturité at the outset but that the wines are purer and more terroir-specific after the malos. “It was a pleasant surprise to find the minerality,” she said.