2004 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru

Christian Gouges did what he described as "a very simple vinification" in 2005 because he didn't want to impose technology or technique on what he said were perfect grapes. He did a short pre-fermentation cool maceration, then punched down the cap three times a day until fermentation temperature reached its peak of 32o. Total cuvaison times were no more than 15 days, and the result, he said, was wines with "an intensity of tannins but not an austerity." Gouges now suggests cellaring his wines for eight to ten years regardless of the vintage. "At the beginning, I said that the 1988s would decline early, but they're still closed and young," he told me. "Since then I'm much more humble about making predictions." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"Vintage 2004 is pinot noir without excess, the classic pinot of Burgundy," said Christian Gouges about the new vintage. Gouges told me that the estate used its sorting table in the winery in 2004, as it was much harder to do a good job of selection in the vines. Sugar levels were typically 12. 7% or 12. 8%, and some of the premier crus were not chaptalized at all, he added. Gouges included a bit of the press wine in 2004 as it was quite supple. "We need the tannins in the press wine for aging potential," he explained. "Otherwise we would just have easy vins de plaisir, not true Burgundy. Wines that are only about fruit don't interest me. "(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)