2003 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru

"Vintage 2004 is pinot noir without excess, the classic pinot of Burgundy," said Christian Gouges about the new vintage. Gouges told me that the estate used its sorting table in the winery in 2004, as it was much harder to do a good job of selection in the vines. Sugar levels were typically 12. 7% or 12. 8%, and some of the premier crus were not chaptalized at all, he added. Gouges included a bit of the press wine in 2004 as it was quite supple. "We need the tannins in the press wine for aging potential," he explained. "Otherwise we would just have easy vins de plaisir, not true Burgundy. Wines that are only about fruit don't interest me. "(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"A millesime d'exception from a climat d'exception," says Christian Gouges about 2003."The wines will be fantastic to follow. And that's all I'm going to say about this vintage."Like the Chevillons, Gouges started harvesting just after the refreshing precipitation that fell on August 28, which he said perked up the grapes by direct contact rather than swelling them by being absorbed through the vines' roots.Gouges did his shortest cuvaison ever, with very little pigeage, and acidified his top three wines in cuve.The premier crus are all between 13.8% and 14.2% alcohol.On my November visit, Gouges described 2002 as "the most balanced vintage I've ever made."(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)