2011 Chassagne-Montrachet

Yields in 2011 were average, and smaller than those of 2009, said Gerard Boudot. "Of course we had a much larger crop than in 2010 thanks to the superb flowering," he addied. Potential alcohol levels were in the 12.5% range, and all but the top crus were chaptalized lightly. At the time of my visit, Boudot had not yet stirred the lees; in 2010, he did only two or three batonnages for each cuvee. Similarly, Boudot has been slowly reducing his use of new oak in recent years. He now uses just 20% to 25% for most of his premier crus (the Combettes gets 33%), compared to 33% to 40% in the late '90s. Boudot is convinced that biodynamic farming has enabled him to get more aromatic precision in his wines, especially in his Bienvenue-Batard and Batard. "Now the differences between these wines are accentuated," he told me, "despite the fact that the vines are not far from each other."