1998 Chassagne-Montrachet

Gerard Boudot describes '98 as a low-acid year, since two weeks of September rain sent potassium levels in the grapes up sharply. To retain freshness he blocked the malolactic fermentation in about 25% of his barrels. And the malos have proceeded slowly. Malic bacteria need nitrogen to do their work, explains Boudot, but because he did very little stirring of the lees the malic bacteria had less nitrogen to work with than usual. Still, the '98s will all be bottled by the end of November, or a few months earlier than usual for the grand crus. The pHs of '98 and '97 are actually practically the same, notes Boudot, but there about a half-gram per liter lower acidity in '98. Boudot did a lot of batonnage in 1997, as the lees were thoroughly clean. He compares this vintage to '92 and '85 in style; the '97s don't have huge gras he says, but they offer a nice balance of material and acidity. They will be pleasant wines at all stages of their evolution, Boudot predicts. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)