1996 Chassagne-Montrachet

This spring Gerard Boudot was concerned over sharply rising white Burgundy prices, and the possibility that recent history might repeat itself. "The prices paid to growers by negociants were up 40% for premier crus in '97, and 50% for the grand crus," said Boudot, who is himself a negociant "But in the crash that took place between 1989 and 1991, bulk prices plunged by nearly 60%." (Technically, the Sauzet estate sells its grapes to the negociant company, which can then vinify them with purchased grapes or must; in all, about two thirds of total production here is from estate fruit.) Boudot '96s are extremely firm wines that would appear to have long and bright futures. "They have a rather rigid spinal column," says Boudot. Yields were much higher than those of the previous vintage, but then Boudot is not a fan of tiny rendements "Chardonnay does not support over concentration," he maintains. "Look at the '89s and '95s. 1995 is almost too concentrated, too fat; these wines may get heavy and lose their fruit before they become pleasant to drink." Boudot describes '97 as in the style of '95 and '92, with the balance to age. He was one of a few winemakers who told me that the acidity levels were actually higher in his post malo '97s than in his '95s. Boudot was still stirring the lees of his '97s twice weekly at the end of May, as he was finding that the batonnage was still making the wines more aromatic without introducing off notes. The only real problem with 1997, Boudot maintains, was heat during the harvest: it was essential to have the equipment necessary to chill the grapes and the cellar. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)