2010 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
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2020 - 2040
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Dujac fans will be thrilled with these 2010s. They are off the charts. The most difficult thing will no doubt be finding them. Jeremy Seysses reported yields down by 30-50% across the board, although his Morey blanc was down a whopping 90%. The poor flowering and wet summer resulted in loose bunches with a high amount of shot berries. The wines came in at 12 to 12.5% potential alcohol and were lightly chaptalized. Seysses used 80-90% stems for most of the wines, a little less for some, such as the Charmes and Combettes (around 70%) and more for the Chambertin and RSV (both 100%). Unfortunately, the 2010 Morey 1er Cru was too reduced to evaluate, so I will have to wait for another opportunity to taste the wine. I also tasted the entire range of 2009s. I will report on those wines in my April article.
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Jeremy Seysses told me that his family eliminated about 25% of the fruit in 2010, "for rot, not for underripeness," and that that percentage was comparable to 2008. He finds that the young 2010s shows similar "thickness and energy" to the 2008s. Potential alcohols were generally a shade over 12%, and following moderate chaptalization the village wines are now around 12.5%, the premier crus 12.8% to 13%, and the grand crus 13% to 13.5%. Due to the high percentage of millerandage, the estate vinified with a substantial percentage of whole clusters in 2010: 90% or more for numerous cuvees. Most of the 2010s were racked for the first time after the 2011 harvest, and some of the wines were quite reduced in November. Interestingly, pHs here are often a tad higher in 2010 than they were in 2009--3.55 to 3.65 vs. 3.5 to 3.6, according to Seysses. "Accusations of overripeness in 2009 are highly simplistic," he pointed out. "The wines are not porty like the 1990s. They have the acid structure to age, and to go the distance."
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